Mexican food & Martinis at Castroni

I'm as big a fan of spaghetti alla carbonara as the next gal, but after three years of Italian food, I challenge even the most avid pasta connoisseur not to be just a tad stuffata (fed-up) with Rome's parade of amatriciana, cacio e pepe, and arrabbiata.  Don't get me wrong, usually all I need is a one-night pasta break with my pal the spicy-sausage pizza, but occasionally I feel the need to head to Castroni.  Not only does this specialty shop stock ethnic-food staples (Mexican, Chinese, Indian, & the illustrious Betty Crocker), gourmet chocolates, & high-quality Italian products, they also make quite good martinis.

Castroni's Mexican food section is exactly where I stocked up when we decided to throw a South-of-the-Border style party (which, it turns out, is considered wildly exotic for most Italians). Although those cans of 

Dining in the Ghetto: Sora Margherita

Take a wrong turn and you could miss this food gem tucked away in the Jewish Ghetto. While the flaming red curtains certainly draw attention to this restaurant-cum-cultural society, it took three separate recommendations &  trusted local advice to have our first dining experience at Sora Margherita. First, be prepared to wait if you want a table for lunch (they do take dinner reservations) as we strolled up at 11:45 & returned at 12:30 for the first round of service - a good move considering we heard rumors of two-hour waits at peak times (ie. arrive early!).

You will be asked to fill-out a 'membership card' at the start of you meal for the Sora Margherita Cultural Society (we're guessing for tax purposes as many cafes have the distinction of "book bars" which somehow gives them the right to sell alcohol if they have a few Italio Calvino's lining the walls), and you may or may not receive a menu.  In our case, a confident and efficient woman arrived to announce, "Who's having artichokes?". Yes, we were. "And what about mozzarella?"  Non. "And do you like cacio e pepe?"  Yes.  "And what about angenlotti?"  Yes, ok.  "And how about some chicken?".  Well, yes senora, but maybe that's too much food.  "Don't worry, I'll take care of you...". She was gone in a swish in a third attempt to take the order for a group of flustered tourists clearly confused about the lack of a menu and  unable to accept our server's "suggestions".  This attitude certainly doesn't jive with the energetic vibe of Sora Margherita. Ultimately the staff are there to ensure their solidly Roman fare is enjoyed by all, but this is also a no-mess-around type of place where timing is key with the next batch of diners waiting impatiently on the other side of those fuzzy curtains.

Assisi

     It is difficult to write about Assist because the town seems to invoke a spiritual reaction - ranging from the the brief to the profound - and is an experience central to the life of Saint Francis and the visiting of the cathedral built in his honor.  A heard a few commentaries on this phenomenon prior to our visit last weekend, not to mention via my Rick Steves podcast on the subject, so I can only add a resounding confirmation that a visit to Assisi is not one that you'll soon forget.  The cathedral frescoes are remarkable; not only for their artistic appearance but also for their ability to visually illustrate the life of the saint in a medium accessible to all.  

Testaccio Market- Fresh Fish & Leather Shoes

     I often work near the market in Testaccio which I highly recommend visiting during a trip to Rome. I could go into a bit of the background of the neighborhood, but suffice it to say that I think it is covered quite well in most guidebooks and a few also contain walking tours of the zone including the nearby Protestant Cemetery of Rome which has been dubbed as one of the most beautiful 'quiet places' in the city.  But, the Testaccio market is anything but quiet as I was quickly reminded of during an impromptu visit this morning ...vis-a-vie a late student cancellation (oh the joys of teaching!). When I hit the market (about 9:00am), the buying and selling was in full swing; most of the customers being locals who do their shopping here everyday.  It's a lively place. The vendors shout greeting to the usual suspects- Italian women (I like the term mammas but fear it's not exactly politically correct) who are selecting fresh produce, meat, herbs, etc. to prepare an undoubtedly superb lunch or dinner.
    Deliveries come and go. There is the women who washes and prepares the puntarelle (a Roman chicory) to be bagged and sold at her stand; the men who clean, peel, cut (and whatever else you need to do to crustaceans) fish and create eleborate displays every morning (ok, there is a slight smell issue); and of course the famous (or infamous) tomato man who sells who-knows-how-many varieties of tomatoes and can tell you exactly which type you need to use for your pasta sauce.

     There are also all sort of revolving bancarelle (stalls) which surround the market, and if you get particularly lucky (ladies pay attention), you might find yourself in front of Made in Italy leather shoes for 15 Euro.  It happened to me one day, and yes, I bought two pairs. I do think this stall might have been a sort of fly-by-night operation (given the blue van they pulled up in and quietly rolled away in early that afternoon..) but if I've learned one thing in Italy, it's better not to ask too many questions! While I've never seen this wonder van again, there are permanent shoe stalls where you can score similar bargains albeit at slightly higher prices. A pair of leather stivali (boots) for 30 or 40 Euro beats the good odd 100 you will spend on high streets like Via Condotti.  
     And don't forget to sample a few of the famous food haunts around the neighborhood, especially the renowned foodie-paradise Volpetti which also has an adjacent tavola calda for quick, takeaway options.

Pompi, The King of Tiramisu

     I've officially gained 5 pounds this week after a tiramisu splurge at the self-proclaimed Regno del Tiramisu  (with good reason!)- Pompi. No, really, this is by far the best tiramisu I, or anyone I know, have ever had. I'm not sure what Mr. Pompi is putting in this chocolate & espresso wonder, but he's got a good thing going as it seems that everyone in Rome knows this place - I asked around. Also, luckily for us, Pompi has other desserts like mousse nutella (need I say more..) and a wickedly decadent chocolate cake ..and that's just the start.  Did I mention the strawberry tiramisu? Ok, that might be taking things a bit too far... 

And this could possiibly be the only place I have found in Rome that has a huge cafe area designed for long afternoons of knocking back cappuccinos, gossiping with 7 or 8 of your closest friends (Roman standards here), and enjoying Italian dessert heaven.  The have a proper dining room where you can sit for hours and not feel the press to down an espresso in 3 swigs while delicately balancing a cornetto in your other hand (my usually morning routine).  But the star remains the tiramisu....even if you arrive late & have to freeze your takeaway tin for 2 hours (it's 'hot' off the press!) before serving, it's worth it....Take the Metro A to Re di Roma and enjoy!

The Glorious Chestnut

   I'm including this post because I am consistently amazed by the appreciation (and celebration) of all things delicious (large & small) in Italy.  I first noticed these little wonders on our trip to the Castelli Romani when we literally stumbled upon a sea of them descending into the town of Nemi..

I guess it comes with being a (semi-) small town girl from California, but I had no idea what these fur balls were until closer inspection revealed their tiny cargo.  Such ignorance would probably shock the residents of Rocca del Papa who celebrated the Sagra della Castagna (annual chestnut festival) this past October 16-19th.  And, it turns out, you can find information about all of the annual festivals through the web site Sagre in Italia..maybe we will make the trek later this month to the Zucca in Festa (Pumpkin in Celebration..or perhaps all types of gourds??).  Inasmuch to say that although I wouldn't consider myself at quite the level of 'slow-foodist' I definitely have acquired a heighten appreciation for food in all its glorious forms.

     And, if you're not quite satisfied with roasting, salting, or spreading your chestnut, I also discovered these lovelies in the supermarket..Marrons Glaces.

Dagnino, Rome

A little piece of cannoli heaven near Piazza Republica at Pasticceria Dagnino . If a pistachio, chocolate, or traditional cannolo isn't your thing, they also produce other Sicilian specialties like cassata or buccellato (seems to be eaten mainly at Christmas!). Or maybe you'd...

Brunch, Chiostro Del Bramante

   Close to Piazza Navona, and next to the celebrated Chiesa Santa Maria Della Pace, you can find the Chiostro del Bramante- cloister turned museum offering great breakfast options in its swanky upstairs cafe.  This is one of the few places to get eggs and bacon in Rome (we spent many a Sunday trying..) and if you don't wish to opt for the mega-brunch plate (pictured) you can order your eggs, omellettes, and even bagettes off their breakfast menu.  Did I mention they have mimosas?  Although the full brunch will set you back...