I often work near the market in Testaccio which I highly recommend visiting during a trip to Rome. I could go into a bit of the background of the neighborhood, but suffice it to say that I think it is covered quite well in most guidebooks and a few also contain walking tours of the zone including the nearby Protestant Cemetery of Rome which has been dubbed as one of the most beautiful 'quiet places' in the city. But, the Testaccio market is anything but quiet as I was quickly reminded of during an impromptu visit this morning ...vis-a-vie a late student cancellation (oh the joys of teaching!). When I hit the market (about 9:00am), the buying and selling was in full swing; most of the customers being locals who do their shopping here everyday. It's a lively place. The vendors shout greeting to the usual suspects- Italian women (I like the term mammas but fear it's not exactly politically correct) who are selecting fresh produce, meat, herbs, etc. to prepare an undoubtedly superb lunch or dinner.
Deliveries come and go. There is the women who washes and prepares the puntarelle (a Roman chicory) to be bagged and sold at her stand; the men who clean, peel, cut (and whatever else you need to do to crustaceans) fish and create eleborate displays every morning (ok, there is a slight smell issue); and of course the famous (or infamous) tomato man who sells who-knows-how-many varieties of tomatoes and can tell you exactly which type you need to use for your pasta sauce.
Deliveries come and go. There is the women who washes and prepares the puntarelle (a Roman chicory) to be bagged and sold at her stand; the men who clean, peel, cut (and whatever else you need to do to crustaceans) fish and create eleborate displays every morning (ok, there is a slight smell issue); and of course the famous (or infamous) tomato man who sells who-knows-how-many varieties of tomatoes and can tell you exactly which type you need to use for your pasta sauce.
There are also all sort of revolving bancarelle (stalls) which surround the market, and if you get particularly lucky (ladies pay attention), you might find yourself in front of Made in Italy leather shoes for 15 Euro. It happened to me one day, and yes, I bought two pairs. I do think this stall might have been a sort of fly-by-night operation (given the blue van they pulled up in and quietly rolled away in early that afternoon..) but if I've learned one thing in Italy, it's better not to ask too many questions! While I've never seen this wonder van again, there are permanent shoe stalls where you can score similar bargains albeit at slightly higher prices. A pair of leather stivali (boots) for 30 or 40 Euro beats the good odd 100 you will spend on high streets like Via Condotti.
And don't forget to sample a few of the famous food haunts around the neighborhood, especially the renowned foodie-paradise Volpetti which also has an adjacent tavola calda for quick, takeaway options.
And don't forget to sample a few of the famous food haunts around the neighborhood, especially the renowned foodie-paradise Volpetti which also has an adjacent tavola calda for quick, takeaway options.
