November 30, 2009

Assisi



     It is difficult to write about Assist because the town seems to invoke a spiritual reaction - ranging from the the brief to the profound - and is an experience central to the life of Saint Francis and the visiting of the cathedral built in his honor.  A heard a few commentaries on this phenomenon prior to our visit last weekend, not to mention via my Rick Steves podcast on the subject, so I can only add a resounding confirmation that a visit to Assisi is not one that you'll soon forget.  The cathedral frescoes are remarkable; not only for their artistic appearance but also for their ability to visually illustrate the life of the saint in a medium accessible to all.  
Certainly the most significant moment on our visit was to the crypt (below the upper church) where a procession of tourists and Italians share their hopes, prayers, and supplications in the narrow passageway surrounding the tomb of the saint.
     The city itself is striking and as our marathon of good weather continued, we were able to see a clear, Umbrian sunset and enjoy the fading light playing on the pinks of Assisi's buildings.  If this all sounds far too romantic, well, it was! I briefly considered ditching my work, and renting a B&B for the week...very fleeting indeed given my salary...




     We did splurge, which seems to be a recurrent theme recently, on an excellent meal at Trattoria Pallota which was recommended by the Lonely Planet and on the Slow Travel web site.

 We sampled a local wine and a regional pasta - Strangozzi. I'm far from an expert on pastas, but I am getting better at recognizing the names, shapes, and preferred sauces. Strangozzi's claim to fame is its lack of eggs, its 20 minute cooking time, and, like most things in Italy, it's delicious.